Cary Grant was James Bond before James Bond. The British-American actor looked like Ian Fleming’s main protagonist, with his slick black hair often curling just-so over his forehead. His tall, athletic frame was capable enough, and his smooth charm could be matched by an aloof coolness. Grant was even originally cast as Bond for 1962 film Dr No. He was put forward by friend and Bond producer Albert ‘Cubby’ Broccoli, who also chose the actor as best man for his wedding. Grant would only commit for a single film though, choosing his acting freedom instead of being tied down to a single franchise.

Watch 1955’s To Catch a Thief and John Robie is every bit the mid century Bond. Grant is an elegant retired burglar who sets out to prove his innocence after being accused of a jewellery heist in the heart of the French Riviera. There’s plenty of subtle innuendo as Grant charms a young heiress playing Grace Kelly, as well as chases, speedboats dicing through the Côte d’Azur. The two even drive the same road as Pierce Brosnan’s James Bond did 40 years later in Goldeneye, overlooking the principality of Monaco. There’s also the style.

Cover image: Credit TCDProdDB – Alamy Stock Photo

Unlike most contemporary actors, Cary Grant had an eye for style, and would frequently dress himself for his roles, choosing from his own extensive wardrobe. For To Catch a Thief, he opted for a suitably Riviera-inspired selection of clothes, which were both tailored and sophisticated, yet lightweight and breathable in the warm heat. Edith Head was the costume designer for the film, but Grant was confident enough in his own dress sense to take the lead for his character. “Edith dressed the women, but she didn’t design my costumes”, he’s quoted as saying in Writing with Hitchcock by Steven DeRosa. “I planned and provided everything myself. In fact, I bought everything in Cannes, just before we began shooting. She didn’t go with me when I purchased the clothes, nor did she approve anything. I was the only one who approved my clothes. Hitch trusted me implicitly to select my own wardrobe. If he wanted me to wear something very specific, he would tell me, but generally, I wore simple, tasteful clothes—the same kinds of clothes I wear off screen.”

Image 1: Credit RGR Collection – Alamy Stock Photo
Image 2: Credit IFA Film – Alamy Stock Photo

So what did he wear? One of the more famous looks consists of the striped long sleeve T-shirt, red polka dot scarf and double-pleated grey trousers, worn above brown leather loafers. It’s a combination that wouldn’t look out of place on the Promenade D’Anglais today. Elsewhere, his wardrobe does much to convey the versatility of the classic white shirt. He wears one with two outfits of varying formality. With a classic front point collar and buttoned cuffs, he combines it in one look with a grey worsted wool suit, black silk tie and matching leather penny loafers. In another, he dresses it down slightly. The collar is open this time, with a polka dot cravat framing his face. A mid grey, patch pocket sports jacket completes the top half, while pleated stone trousers and loafers finish it off. Soft, comfortable and elegant, it’s a look befitting of the sophisticated Robie, who’s just as at home chasing a criminal on a rooftop as he is in a dinner jacket in the casino. Much like James Bond then.

Image 1: Credit Pictorial Press – Alamy Stock Photo
Image 2: Credit TCDProdDB – Alamy Stock Photo