Korbinian Ludwig Heß has created an atmosphere of peace, tranquillity and serenity in his workshop in Berlin. When you enter the small shop located in a residential area built in the late 19th century it is like stepping into another world.

All you hear is the sound of hammers and the distinctive hum of the ancient, foot-operated sewing machines. Your nose will notice the smell of leather and wood but not of any chemicals. The glue used here is homemade of starch and other natural ingredients.

Korbinian Ludwig Heß expects us in the anteroom of his workshop. It is furnished with an antique sofa and a minimalistic glass display case showing some samples shoes. He is quite tall and serious looking, but he breaks into a welcoming smile as he greets us with a handshake.

Now the sound of hammering starts again and when he ask for the reason of it he leads into the workroom. We can see how one of his shoemakers is working with the hammer on the leather uppers that have been pulled over the last. And technique that needs a lot of skill.

Korbinian Ludwig Heß explains that he can hear from next door if the shoemaker works well just by the sound of the hammer. Judging handwork by ear may seem crazy to people from the digital world but in our host’s sphere it is perfectly normal.

“Each pair of shoes that I make is unique. It puts the owner of these shoes into the centre. I don’t not only look at the measurements of the feet. I also watch the way he holds his body, his gait and I even take the personality into account. It is collaboration based on confidentiality and trust.”

“Handwork is the most honest way of creating something. It allows me to control every detail. I can make sure, that the shoes are aesthetically pleasing but also functional and durable. Handwork bestows the finished product with a soul that you often miss in machine made products.”

“The personal stories of the clients are my inspiration. Sometimes small details from their life. A piece of furniture. A vintage care or a song. Anything that the client shows me can go into the design of the shoe. I am driven by a mixture of aesthetics, minimalism and quality of the materials. Often the reduction to the essentials has the greatest effect.”

“The time I spent in Vienna with Rudolf Scheer & Söhne were formative. It was there that I learned the technical basics and a deep understanding of the tradition and the style of the Viennese shoemaking craft. Even though the shoes that we make today differ from the ones I built then you can still hear a faint echo of a Viennese waltz when you listen closely while looking at them.”

“The fit of the shoes is more than getting than adapting them perfectly to the feet. The fit must support the whole body and put it into balance. Good shoes influence the posture and the gait. They should give their wearer the feeling of moving naturally. Fit is a mixture of comfort, function and aesthetics. The shoe should fit the feet and the client himself.”

“Clients come to my workshop because they are looking for something unique. I offer an intense and personal consultation and all-around care. This is way many clients come back after the first pair and then after the second and so on. Because they get a pair of shoes and in addition a piece of craftsmanship creating for them alone. It is all about trust. My clients know that I understand their ideas and needs.”

“I strongly believe that the demand for handcrafted bespoke products is growing in a more and more automated world. People are searching for quality, individuality and sustainability. And this is what traditional crafts are offering.”

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Photography by Tommi Aittala